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<channel>
	<title>NEOW Tech Talk</title>
	<description>Technical Discussion Forum</description>
	<link>http://neow.net/forum</link>
	<pubDate>Mon, 14 May 2012 13:47:37 +0000</pubDate>
	<ttl>720</ttl>
	<image>
		<title>NEOW Tech Talk</title>
		<url>http://forum.neow.net/skin_acp/IPB2_Standard/images/rss.png</url>
		<link>http://neow.net/forum</link>
	</image>
	<item>
		<title>Jeep 4.0L wiring help</title>
		<link>http://neow.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=105938</link>
		<description><![CDATA[So I am swaping a 4.0L out of a cherokee into my CJ, I got the engine harness from an automatic cherokee, and I got a PCM from a salvage yard, and it says it is from a manual.&nbsp;&nbsp;I have all the sensors hooked up and looked up the 5 wires to fire, and have those picked out and connected so that it should fire up.&nbsp;&nbsp;when i turn the key the fuel pump comes on, when I turn to start position nothing.&nbsp;&nbsp;Anyone know what might be going on?<br />
<br />
I am looking into the neutral safety switch, I have been doind some reading about the need to bypass this because my jeep is a manual.&nbsp;&nbsp;I don't really know where is the best place to bypass this.&nbsp;&nbsp;I have read that you can ground the "wire side" of the start relay at the power distribution block, but I don't know what the "wire side" is.&nbsp;&nbsp;I have also seen some pictures on the connector with a small jumper connecting pins B to C. <br />
<br />
I have also read that the automatic harness may have some different gounds at the PCM connector, and was wondering if that may have something to do with it. <br />
<br />
Pictures of the underside of the power distribution, or neutral safety switch bypass would be helpful.<br />
<br />
-Neil]]></description>
		<pubDate>Mon, 14 May 2012 13:47:37 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://neow.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=105938</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>One for the Juice</title>
		<link>http://neow.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=105910</link>
		<description><![CDATA[I know a guy that got a 2002 Nissan Sentra SE <strong class='bbc'>R</strong> Spec <strong class='bbc'>V</strong> for next to nothing because it burned a ton of oil, had clogged cats, and needed oxygen sensors. Other than that, it's a solid car, and runs great. Now when I say a ton of oil, I mean like a quart every 100 miles. I figured this can't be the only Sentra to ever have this problem, so I thought I would throw it out there and see if anyone had any input on it.<br />
The new owner replaced the cats, O2 sensors, PCV Valve, and EGR valve. Oh, and it has aftermarket exhaust, or at least (like a game I like to play with my wife) just the tip.]]></description>
		<pubDate>Fri, 11 May 2012 12:56:52 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://neow.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=105910</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Tranny swap</title>
		<link>http://neow.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=105892</link>
		<description><![CDATA[What would be a bolt in replacement of newer 5 speed for an early 70's Saginaw 4 speed? While the cab is off the project truck, we're looking to upgrade the tranny to a 5 speed. This is behind a Chevy 283 and the driveshaft can be modified as required.<br />
<br />
Thanks]]></description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 09 May 2012 14:32:58 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://neow.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=105892</guid>
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	<item>
		<title>PSA:  Bleeding Brakes with Assistance</title>
		<link>http://neow.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=105876</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Replaced the rear calipers/pads/rotors on the JK:<br />
Ok, when I say DOWN, pump the brakes three times and hold.&nbsp;&nbsp;Don't pick up your foot, until I say UP.<br />
"Ok, no problem"<br />
DOWN<br />
"1...2...3...hold"<br />
open bleeder&nbsp;&nbsp;nothing.&nbsp;&nbsp;Odd.&nbsp;&nbsp;close bleeder.<br />
UP<br />
DOWN<br />
"1...2...3...hold"<br />
open bleeder&nbsp;&nbsp;nothing.&nbsp;&nbsp;Odd.&nbsp;&nbsp;close bleeder.&nbsp;&nbsp;Damn, there must be a hell of alot of air in there.&nbsp;&nbsp;Ok.<br />
"1...2...3...hold"<br />
open bleeder&nbsp;&nbsp;nothing.&nbsp;&nbsp;Odd.&nbsp;&nbsp;close bleeder.<br />
You're letting it get to the floor each time, right?<br />
"It's going to the floor every time."<br />
Wait, wut?&nbsp;&nbsp;Lemme see how you're doing it.&nbsp;&nbsp;DOWN<br />
"1...2...3...hold" WHILE <del class='bbc'>she</del> my assistant is pumping the ACCELERATOR PEDAL!!!<br />
Uhm...that's the..uhh...accellerator pedal.<br />
"Oh sh1t!!"<br />
<br />
At which point we both just lost it, laughing our arses off.]]></description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 08 May 2012 16:52:40 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://neow.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=105876</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>spicer u joint help</title>
		<link>http://neow.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=105864</link>
		<description><![CDATA[have a 2001 dodge 2500 with a cummins. need rear drive shaft ujoints again.&nbsp;&nbsp;Does spicer make a greasable joint. cap diameter is 1.188 or 1.189. I cant find anything and I dont want to do another vatozone joint]]></description>
		<pubDate>Mon, 07 May 2012 22:18:37 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://neow.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=105864</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Ford focus rear brakes seized</title>
		<link>http://neow.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=105838</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Car sat for the last 2 weeks and now the rear wheel is locked up.&nbsp;&nbsp;Any ideas?<br />
<br /><br />2005 with rear drums]]></description>
		<pubDate>Sat, 05 May 2012 00:52:57 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://neow.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=105838</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Auto Body classes?</title>
		<link>http://neow.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=105837</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Anyone know of any adult Ed type classes for auto body? I took a welding class right here in Hudson at the high school that was great. A little extra knowledge for working on the COE could be very beneficial.<br />
<br />
thanks,<br />
<br />
Rick]]></description>
		<pubDate>Fri, 04 May 2012 21:22:18 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://neow.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=105837</guid>
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	<item>
		<title>anyone re-center hummer rims?</title>
		<link>http://neow.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=105814</link>
		<description><![CDATA[i'm looking for a shop or person with the capability to re-center hummer rims. they need to be straight and true.i've got an extra set i want to put on my jeep for the times when i drive to the trail.&nbsp;&nbsp;thx]]></description>
		<pubDate>Thu, 03 May 2012 00:43:41 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://neow.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=105814</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>F350 locking hub</title>
		<link>http://neow.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=105797</link>
		<description>Some douche whistle stole the outer twist part of my 97 F350 locking hub three screw style. The big question is will a complete locking hub six screw style out of 86 F250 fit in the front hub? It looks like it might.</description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 01 May 2012 22:48:51 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://neow.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=105797</guid>
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	<item>
		<title><![CDATA[Ford 9&#34; Gear Setup Help]]></title>
		<link>http://neow.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=105742</link>
		<description><![CDATA[I have setup a few Dana style axles, but this if my first Ford 3rd.&nbsp;&nbsp;Everything is brand new; 3rd member, gears, pinion support and install kit.<br />
<br />
A few things are different than the original.&nbsp;&nbsp;I am using a Daytona style pinion support and an adjustable spacer rather than a crush sleeve.<br />
<br />
So, first the larger inner pinion bearing needs to be pressed on, but I assumed the outer pinion bearing would be somewhat of a slip fit bit it is very tight, and seems to need a press as well...which leads me to question 1.<br />
<br />
1) The adjustable spacer is a lot more "adjustable" than I thought it would be.&nbsp;&nbsp;It has two larger spacers, and about 10 shims.&nbsp;&nbsp;I am not sure in which order these go, exactly where they go, and how many I should start out with.&nbsp;&nbsp;Since the outer pinion bearing is so tight, I don't see how I can remove or add shims to get the depth right without pressing the pinion out of the pinion support each time, which seems like it will wreck the outer pinion bearing after one or two cycles.<br />
<br />
2) Why do I have multiple shims supplied to go between the pinion support and the 3rd...that seems redundant to the adjustable spacer?&nbsp;&nbsp;Or are is the adjustable spacer what is used to set the pinion bearing preload?<br />
<br />
3) Where do the pinion support shims go, between the 3rd and the gasket, or between the pinion support and the gasket?<br />
<br />
This seems like a simple setup, but I can't find a very good detailed write-up that uses all new parts, everything else is based on using an existing 3rd member and just changing gears or installing a new carrier.<br />
<br />
Thanks, Tim]]></description>
		<pubDate>Fri, 27 Apr 2012 01:53:18 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://neow.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=105742</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>TDI engine swap</title>
		<link>http://neow.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=105722</link>
		<description>She wants an EOS but not the gasser engine. Any ideas on how ridiculously hard a TDI swap into an EOS might be?</description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 25 Apr 2012 16:54:57 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://neow.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=105722</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>What auto tranny behind a 6bt Cummins?</title>
		<link>http://neow.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=105721</link>
		<description>Hey guys I have found a new motor for my M715. A 93 6bt Cummins. My question is I wanna run a overdrive auto behind it in preferably 2wd to my divorced 205. Need some recommendations. I also have the option of a older rebuilt 727/205 combo from a 6bt w250 truck. The axles will be running 4.88s with a 37-39 inch tire.</description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 25 Apr 2012 15:34:44 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://neow.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=105721</guid>
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	<item>
		<title>2008 titan lift kit options??</title>
		<link>http://neow.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=105671</link>
		<description><![CDATA[My BIL is looking for a 3 inch lift for his 08 Titan XE 5.7 4x4.<br />
<br />
He was looking at a 3 inch spacer kit with rear shackles. Also the Rough Country with new control arms, however, there is nothing in the kit for the rear. Looking for low budget.<br />
<br />
Thoughts??<br />
<br />
Thanks.]]></description>
		<pubDate>Sat, 21 Apr 2012 21:53:47 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://neow.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=105671</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>LMC Truck Leaf Spings</title>
		<link>http://neow.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=105665</link>
		<description>need to replace the rear leafs in my 94 F250 and am planning on going with a set from LMC, anyone order from them before? any good or bad?</description>
		<pubDate>Sat, 21 Apr 2012 02:38:36 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://neow.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=105665</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>CJ Speeometers</title>
		<link>http://neow.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=105599</link>
		<description><![CDATA[I have a couple of these and I was wondering if anyone could tell me what years they are from and what motors by looking at them? I have been looking online but not much luck.<br />
<a class='resized_img' rel='lightbox[1553360]' id='ipb-attach-url-24872-0-50987000-1337486779' href="http://neow.net/forum/index.php?s=1a54a519c82dc8843c865554360996c9&app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=24872" title="P1010227.JPG - Size: 273.4K, Downloads: 10"><img itemprop="image" src="http://neow.net/forum/uploads/monthly_04_2012/post-1178-0-53148900-1334503494_thumb.jpg" id='ipb-attach-img-24872-0-50987000-1337486779' style='width:100;height:75' class='attach' width="100" height="75" alt="P1010227.JPG" /></a>
<br />
<a class='resized_img' rel='lightbox[1553360]' id='ipb-attach-url-24873-0-51028200-1337486779' href="http://neow.net/forum/index.php?s=1a54a519c82dc8843c865554360996c9&app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=24873" title="P1010228.JPG - Size: 292.61K, Downloads: 14"><img itemprop="image" src="http://neow.net/forum/uploads/monthly_04_2012/post-1178-0-94958200-1334503498_thumb.jpg" id='ipb-attach-img-24873-0-51028200-1337486779' style='width:100;height:75' class='attach' width="100" height="75" alt="P1010228.JPG" /></a>
<br />
<a class='resized_img' rel='lightbox[1553360]' id='ipb-attach-url-24874-0-51007800-1337486779' href="http://neow.net/forum/index.php?s=1a54a519c82dc8843c865554360996c9&app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=24874" title="P1010229.JPG - Size: 310.81K, Downloads: 11"><img itemprop="image" src="http://neow.net/forum/uploads/monthly_04_2012/post-1178-0-94204400-1334503502_thumb.jpg" id='ipb-attach-img-24874-0-51007800-1337486779' style='width:100;height:75' class='attach' width="100" height="75" alt="P1010229.JPG" /></a>
<br />
<a class='resized_img' rel='lightbox[1553360]' id='ipb-attach-url-24875-0-48763700-1337486779' href="http://neow.net/forum/index.php?s=1a54a519c82dc8843c865554360996c9&app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=24875" title="P1010230.JPG - Size: 305.93K, Downloads: 10"><img itemprop="image" src="http://neow.net/forum/uploads/monthly_04_2012/post-1178-0-47153100-1334503506_thumb.jpg" id='ipb-attach-img-24875-0-48763700-1337486779' style='width:100;height:75' class='attach' width="100" height="75" alt="P1010230.JPG" /></a>
]]></description>
		<pubDate>Sun, 15 Apr 2012 15:25:47 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://neow.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=105599</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Front end alignment for daily driver</title>
		<link>http://neow.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=105585</link>
		<description><![CDATA[My 2006 Dodge 2500 CTD has needed an alignment since I got it. The only mechanic I trust is old school, and does not own a machine. He says you can do it with a tape measure, and though I think everything he says is gospel, I'm not really feeling that move. So my question is, how precise do I need to be with this type front end? I run a 2 1/2" Leveling kit and 34's and do 15,000 a year. What is more important, state of the art equipment, or someone that knows how to do alignments, or both? And, while we are at it, who does a good job in the dover, Rochester, somersworth, portsmouth area?]]></description>
		<pubDate>Fri, 13 Apr 2012 20:57:12 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://neow.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=105585</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Steering Box Woes</title>
		<link>http://neow.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=105583</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Soooooo, I got the jeep running great with the efi. I finished doing the brakes over. Thought Id take her out for a spin. But wait...I really should check my steering to see where all the recent slop is coming from. OHHHH BOYYYYY! I turned the steering shaft by hand and watched my steering box move, rather significantly. Then I noticed I'm missing one of the two bolts that hold the shackle hanger/ steering box brace to the frame. The two back bolts are spinning freely. It looks like the weld nuts finally gave way. Fortunately I have a heavy duty steering box brace, but it doesnt do much good unless its secured to the frame!&nbsp;&nbsp;How the hell am I gonna fix this? After staring at it for some time and dreading the idea of removing my winch plate (major pia) to access the side of the frame, I'm thinking cut out the bottom of the frame. Weld in some 1/4" plate and tap new holes for the bolts. As an added bonus I'll weld nuts on.&nbsp;&nbsp;Anybody got a better idea????]]></description>
		<pubDate>Fri, 13 Apr 2012 19:51:40 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://neow.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=105583</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Warn Internal Hub repair</title>
		<link>http://neow.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=105539</link>
		<description><![CDATA[I bought the warn hub conversion kit for my jeep back when I had the D30. I kept it when I moved up to the D44. Recently, while replacing my rotors the drivers side hub came out in 3 pieces. I took the cap off and the snap ring on the axle and the main body of the hub discombooberated on me! <img src='http://neow.net/forum/public/style_emoticons/default/banghead.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':banghead:' /> Apparently some snap rings that hold all the guts together wore out. I tried to put it back together several times but havent been able to get it to engage the outer shaft. I since found out that warn is the only company that makes an internal&nbsp;&nbsp;locking hub to go over a 27 spline outer shaft. They dont even list them on their website. I happened to still have the box the hubs came in so I have the part number for them. I googled them and found them for $175 a set on amazon.<br />
Is anybody familiar with how these things are put together. I think I need a snap ring to hold the inner gear in place. I havent a clue what holds the middle gear and the spring in place. I'm gonna call warn to see if theyll warranty them but I dont want to wait six weeks or whatever to get them back!]]></description>
		<pubDate>Mon, 09 Apr 2012 03:06:24 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://neow.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=105539</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Dumb Question: Silicone couplers</title>
		<link>http://neow.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=105533</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Are they gas resistant, like useful for a fuel filler tube?<br />
<br />
Talking about something like this:<br />
<br />
<a href='http://www.frozenboost.com/product_info.php?cPath=203&products_id=30&osCsid=348b7b04644539b838ec59d2505e267d' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow external'>http://www.frozenboost.com/product_info.php?cPath=203&products_id=30&osCsid=348b7b04644539b838ec59d2505e267d</a>]]></description>
		<pubDate>Sun, 08 Apr 2012 14:26:23 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://neow.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=105533</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>2 piece driveshaft??</title>
		<link>http://neow.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=105501</link>
		<description><![CDATA[I'm the first to admit I ain't the brightest bulb on the tree.... On my crazy cabover project, I'd been thinking the front driveshaft would need to be 2 pieces to "go around" the engine. I also was thinking, "no problem, it won't be spinning all the time anyway, only in 4wd". WRONG! The 2002 Dodge 1500 front end doesn't have locking hubs or a disconnect.<br />
<br />
I don't think I want a 2 piece driveshaft spinning full time. Ideas to solve that?<br />
<br />
thanks,<br />
<br />
Rick]]></description>
		<pubDate>Thu, 05 Apr 2012 14:00:48 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://neow.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=105501</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>6.5L Suburban stumbling when cold</title>
		<link>http://neow.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=105448</link>
		<description><![CDATA[My wifes' 1997 6.5L Suburban has recently started stumbling when cold.&nbsp;&nbsp;It starts up good, but then misfires under load.&nbsp;&nbsp;I can let it idle for 5 minutes and it will still do it,&nbsp;&nbsp;but once it is well warm it evens out.&nbsp;&nbsp;It just started doing this over the last week so I am thinking it may be water in the fuel as the tank is about empty.&nbsp;&nbsp;I will fill it up and give it some Power Service today,&nbsp;&nbsp;but is there something else I should look into?]]></description>
		<pubDate>Sat, 31 Mar 2012 21:57:06 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://neow.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=105448</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>YJ V8 motor mount question</title>
		<link>http://neow.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=105434</link>
		<description><![CDATA[sooooo......my son's 88 YJ is getting a nicely built AMC 360. It's going to be hooked to a T999 and a 231. My question is on motor mounts.<br />
<br />
I've been told a whole bunch of diiferent things ranging from it's a bolt in to you need the AA weld in mounts. I intend to keep the transmission in it's current location.<br />
<br />
I have the ability and tools to make my own mounts, but i would rather not spend the time doing so. So if someone has done an AMC V8 swap in an early YJ - can you enlighten me as to what you did for motor mounts?<br />
<br />
Thanks]]></description>
		<pubDate>Fri, 30 Mar 2012 18:27:20 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://neow.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=105434</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>D35 bearing replacement</title>
		<link>http://neow.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=105423</link>
		<description><![CDATA[I'm attempting to put wheel bearings in a D35, Non C-clip axle. The replacement bearing according to Advance Auto and also what appears to be the same at <a href='http://www.4wd.com/Jeep-Drivetrain-Jeep-Axles-Differentials/Bearing-and-Retainer-Kit-by-Crown-Automotive-for-Jeep.aspx?t_c=12&t_s=514&t_pt=8211&t_pn=CRO83501451' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow external'>http://www.4wd.com/Jeep-Drivetrain-Jeep-Axles-Differentials/Bearing-and-Retainer-Kit-by-Crown-Automotive-for-Jeep.aspx?t_c=12&t_s=514&t_pt=8211&t_pn=CRO83501451</a> doesn't look like what's on there now. The retainer ring is half again thicker and the bearing seems like a "one piece" set up rather than two pieces, the taper bearing and the race.<br />
<br />
If you look at the Crown pic, there is a thinnish "band" around the bottom of the bearing that seems to keep the race in place. What gives?<br />
<br />
thanks,<div id='attach_wrap' class='clearfix'>
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</div>]]></description>
		<pubDate>Thu, 29 Mar 2012 17:59:44 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://neow.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=105423</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance</title>
		<link>http://neow.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=105419</link>
		<description><![CDATA[OK, no Zen, but MC maintenance...<br />
<br />
&nbsp;&nbsp;Our bikes get ridden so rarely, having all 4 carbs done on each one is nearly an annual event. And better yet, not one that I want to do so I hire my local (incredibly awesome) bike mechanic to do it.<br />
<br />
&nbsp;&nbsp;I've been trying to talk my wife into selling both bikes, but she refuses. 1 year she put 100 miles on hers. Most years, we're lucky to put on 1000 miles.<br />
<br />
&nbsp;&nbsp; Would running Stabil full time in them free me from this annual hit to the pocket and the associated PIA pick up and drop off? Any side effects?<br />
<br />
thanks,]]></description>
		<pubDate>Thu, 29 Mar 2012 14:40:26 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://neow.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=105419</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>2002 Grand Cherokee Limited climate control question</title>
		<link>http://neow.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=105402</link>
		<description><![CDATA[The HVAC has code 52.&nbsp;&nbsp;(Recirc door large travel)&nbsp;&nbsp;I will guess the jeep has no recirc.&nbsp;&nbsp;The heat in the jeep works fine, but the A/C does not work.&nbsp;&nbsp;There is pressure in the A/C system.&nbsp;&nbsp;I even tried to add more refridgerant and it did not go into the system.&nbsp;&nbsp;Do the A/C clutches go bad?&nbsp;&nbsp;<br />
Thanks]]></description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 28 Mar 2012 18:07:50 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://neow.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=105402</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Where do I get in line for ONE EACH!!!!!!!</title>
		<link>http://neow.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=105388</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Concept FC and J truck!<div id='attach_wrap' class='clearfix'>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 27 Mar 2012 20:39:55 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://neow.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=105388</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>DIY EFI SUCCESS!</title>
		<link>http://neow.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=105353</link>
		<description><![CDATA[ITS ALIVE! It came to life without any problems. I performed a diy efi on my CJ. Been studying and procuring parts for several months. Its basically a Howell clone but I'm using the ecm to control my timing. I utilized a GM 4.3 ecm to get me going. Depending on how the fuel maps read I may have a custom chip burned for it. I was kinda surprised that the system didnt throw a check engine light because I'm not using the egr, vss, or park/neutral wire. I'm gonna borrow my daughters laptop and download winaldl to monitor the system. Speaking of which, I'll need to grab a power converter to run the laptop since the battery in the laptop is junk. What size would be sufficient to accomplish this.]]></description>
		<pubDate>Sun, 25 Mar 2012 16:05:50 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://neow.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=105353</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Cherokee 4.0 Rear Main Seal Removal Help</title>
		<link>http://neow.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=105334</link>
		<description><![CDATA[I can't get the upper half of the old rear main seal out.&nbsp;&nbsp;I have pounded on it (carefully) with a brass punch and it won't even budge.&nbsp;&nbsp;The last one I did I just barely leaned on it and it pushed out enough I could grab it from the other side.<br />
<br />
Any thoughts or tricks to get the old one out without damaging the crank etc?<br />
<br />
Thanks, Tim]]></description>
		<pubDate>Fri, 23 Mar 2012 21:03:55 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://neow.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=105334</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Brakes sticking</title>
		<link>http://neow.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=105318</link>
		<description><![CDATA[A while back I had a problem with my brakes sticking/dragging. Usually with a sticky caliper, it will pull to one side. This was acting like there was pressure in the whole system, like my foot was on the peddle. The peddle is/was also very firm and would not come all the way back up, leaving my brake lights on. I cracked a front bleeder and fluid squirted out, under pressure. All was good for a while, than started doing it again. So I replaced the master and booster with parts from another company. Well, it started doing it again today. VERY firm peddle, not much movement, brakes dragging quite badly. I cracked open a rear bleeder and fluid came squirting out, I than opened a front, same.<br />
<br />
.<br />
<br />
So, what can be causing the system to build/hold pressure and the peddle to act the way it does? I'm at a loss right now. I checked the temp of my brake lines and proportioning valve. The hottest spot, about 3/4 of an inch from the exhaust is around 190/200 degrees. Exhaust routing has not changed, pipes are ceramic/VHT coated, not a lot of heat coming off them. Obviously my rotors and drums are quite hot due to them being constantly engaged. Any thoughts? <br />
<br />
Seems if it were a messed up prop valve, either front or back would act up, not both<br />
<br />
Both master and booster have been replaced, Camaro/vette master, universal 8 inch dual diaphram booster.<br />
<br />
Lines are all stainless, no obvious kinks, etc.<br />
<br />
Calipers come back once pressure is relieved.<br />
<br />
Only thing I can think of is that the brake fluid is boiling? Shouldn't be at 200 tho???]]></description>
		<pubDate>Thu, 22 Mar 2012 15:16:38 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://neow.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=105318</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Who is running a Viar or simiar air compressor system?</title>
		<link>http://neow.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=105314</link>
		<description>Looking into Viar and similar systems to install in my Excursion. Mostly for airing up tires and air bags from what Ive heard running air tools is a stretch. Any experience appreciated thanks</description>
		<pubDate>Thu, 22 Mar 2012 03:39:37 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://neow.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=105314</guid>
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